How Do You Change Pedals On A Bike
A practical step-by-step guide to how do you change pedals on a bike, including preparation, instructions, common issues, tips, and next steps.
How Do You Change Pedals On A Bike
This guide explains how to approach how do you change pedals on a bike, including the preparation, practical steps, common mistakes, and final checks that help you finish with confidence.
Before You Start
Step-by-Step Instructions
Quick Reference
Common Problems When You Change Pedals On A Bike
Even with careful preparation, you might encounter a few hiccups when changing bike pedals. Knowing what to look out for and how to fix them can save you a lot of frustration and potential damage.
Stuck or Seized Pedals
This is perhaps the most common issue, especially with older bikes or pedals that haven't been removed in a long time. Over time, rust and corrosion can fuse the pedal axle to the crank arm threads, making them extremely difficult to loosen. Often, the grease applied during installation wears away or dries out, leaving the metal parts vulnerable.
- Solution: Before applying excessive force, try spraying a generous amount of penetrating oil (like WD-40 or similar) where the pedal axle meets the crank arm. Let it soak for 10-15 minutes, or even longer for very stubborn pedals. Then, try loosening the pedal again with firm, steady pressure. A longer wrench or using your foot to push the wrench can provide extra leverage.
Stripped or Damaged Threads
Stripping threads usually happens if you try to force a pedal in the wrong direction, or if it's cross-threaded during installation. This damages the delicate threads on either the pedal axle or, more seriously, inside the crank arm. Stripped crank arm threads are a significant problem as they often require professional repair (like re-tapping and inserting a Helicoil) or even a crank arm replacement, which can be expensive.
- Solution: The best solution is prevention: always start threading pedals by hand and ensure they turn smoothly for several rotations before using a wrench. If you suspect stripped threads, stop immediately. If it's the pedal threads, you'll need a new pedal. If it's the crank arm threads, consult a bike mechanic.
Cross-Threading
Cross-threading occurs when the pedal axle is screwed into the crank arm at an angle, causing the threads to misalign and cut into each other. This often feels rough or gritty when you start turning by hand and will quickly seize up if you try to force it. It can easily lead to stripped threads.
- Solution: If you feel any resistance or roughness when hand-threading, stop immediately. Unscrew the pedal completely, wipe the threads clean, re-align the pedal perfectly straight with the crank arm, and try again. It should feel smooth and easy to turn by hand for the first few rotations.
Installing Pedals on the Wrong Side
Because of the different thread directions, you simply cannot install a left pedal on the right side, or vice-versa, without severely damaging the threads. The threads will not engage correctly, and forcing them will almost certainly strip the crank arm.
- Solution: Always double-check the 'L' and 'R' markings on your pedals before installation. Remember, the right pedal has standard threading, and the left pedal has reverse threading. If you've tried to force it and caused damage, refer to the "Stripped Threads" solution above.
Loose Pedals After Installation
If your pedals feel wobbly or make a clicking sound after you've installed them and gone for a ride, they might not be tightened enough. This is dangerous as a pedal could come off while riding, and a loose pedal can also damage the crank arm threads over time due to movement and wear.
- Solution: Re-tighten the pedals firmly using the correct pedal wrench or Allen key. Ensure you're tightening in the correct direction for each side (clockwise for right, anti-clockwise for left). It's a good practice to re-check the tightness after your first few rides following a pedal change.
Advanced Tips for How Do You Change Pedals On A Bike
Once you've mastered the basic process, there are a few advanced considerations and techniques that can further improve your pedal changing experience and the longevity of your bike's components.
Using a Torque Wrench
For those who want precision and to avoid overtightening or undertightening, a torque wrench is an invaluable tool. Most pedal manufacturers (and crank arm manufacturers) specify a torque setting for pedal installation, typically around 35-40 Nm (Newton metres). Using a torque wrench ensures your pedals are tightened exactly to the manufacturer's recommendations, which prevents damage to threads and ensures security.
- Benefit: Prevents stripped threads from overtightening and ensures pedals don't loosen from undertightening.
- Consideration: Requires a torque wrench with the correct range and a 15mm crowfoot adapter for pedal wrenches, or an appropriate Allen key bit.
Applying Anti-Seize Compound
While standard bicycle grease is usually sufficient, for long-term installations or bikes frequently exposed to harsh weather (rain, salt, mud), an anti-seize compound offers superior protection against corrosion and seizing. Anti-seize is a paste containing metals like copper or aluminium that creates a barrier to prevent dissimilar metals from bonding, even under high pressure and temperature.
- Benefit: Significantly reduces the risk of pedals seizing, especially in aluminium crank arms with steel pedal axles.
- Application: Apply a thin layer to the pedal threads, just like grease.
Understanding Different Pedal Axle Lengths
While most pedals fit standard crank arms, some specialized pedals might have slightly different axle lengths or q-factors (the distance between the outsides of your feet on the pedals). While this typically doesn't affect installation, being aware of it can help if you're experiencing comfort issues or shoe rub after changing pedals.
- Consideration: If you're swapping very different types of pedals (e.g., from an old road bike to a modern MTB), check for any specific compatibility notes.
Periodic Pedal Maintenance
Even if you're not changing your pedals, it's good practice to remove, clean, regrease, and reinstall them every 1-2 years, or more frequently if you ride in very wet or dirty conditions. This proactive maintenance prevents seizing and makes future pedal changes much easier. It also gives you an opportunity to inspect the crank arm threads for any wear or damage.
- Benefit: Prolongs the life of your crank arms and pedals, and prevents frustrating seized components.
Tool Quality Matters
Using cheap, ill-fitting tools can strip bolt heads, round off pedal wrench flats, or even slip and cause injury. Invest in a good quality 15mm pedal wrench or a set of strong hex (Allen) keys. A good pedal wrench is longer than a standard spanner, providing better leverage, and has thinner jaws to fit into tight spaces between the pedal and crank arm without damaging the crank.
- Benefit: Better grip, less chance of damaging components, safer operation.
How Do You Change Pedals On A Bike FAQ
How often should I change bike pedals?
There's no strict rule for how often to change pedals. You should consider changing them if they are worn out (e.g., bearings are gritty or loose), damaged (bent axles, cracked bodies), or if you want to upgrade to a different type of pedal (e.g., from flats to clipless). For maintenance, it's a good idea to remove, clean, regrease, and reinstall your existing pedals every 1-2 years to prevent them from seizing.
Can I use a normal spanner instead of a pedal wrench?
While a standard 15mm open-end spanner might fit, it's generally not recommended. A dedicated pedal wrench is usually longer, providing better leverage, and has thinner jaws designed to fit into the narrow gap between the pedal body and the crank arm without scraping the crank. Using a thick standard spanner can scratch your crank arms or not provide enough grip to loosen a tight pedal, potentially rounding off the pedal flats.
Why are bike pedal threads different on each side?
The different threading (standard on the right, reverse on the left) is a clever design to prevent your pedals from unscrewing themselves while you ride. Due to a phenomenon called precession, the rotational forces of pedalling actually try to loosen a standard-threaded pedal on the left side and a reverse-threaded pedal on the right side. By reversing the thread on the left pedal, both pedals effectively self-tighten during normal riding, ensuring they stay securely attached.
What happens if I put pedals on the wrong side?
If you attempt to put a left pedal on the right side or vice-versa, the threads will not align. Forcing it will immediately cross-thread and severely damage the threads on your crank arm and potentially the pedal axle. This can lead to an expensive repair, often requiring a new crank arm set. Always double-check the 'L' and 'R' markings before installation.
Do I need to grease pedal threads?
Yes, absolutely. Greasing the pedal threads is crucial. It serves several important purposes: it allows the pedals to be installed smoothly, prevents them from seizing due to corrosion (especially where steel axles meet aluminium crank arms), and makes it much easier to remove the pedals in the future. Skipping this step can lead to seized pedals that are extremely difficult or impossible to remove without damaging components.
What size Allen key do I need for bike pedals?
Many modern pedals don't have flats for a 15mm pedal wrench. Instead, they feature a hex fitting (Allen key slot) on the inside end of the pedal axle, often accessible through the crank arm. The most common sizes for these Allen key fittings are 6mm or 8mm. Check your specific pedals to confirm which size you'll need.
Final Checklist for How Do You Change Pedals On A Bike
Before you hit the road with your new pedals, run through this quick checklist to ensure everything is correctly installed and safe.
- New Pedals Identified: Have you correctly distinguished the left (L) and right (R) pedals?
- Old Pedals Removed: Are both old pedals completely off and their respective crank arms clear?
- Crank Threads Clean: Have you wiped down the crank arm threads to remove old grease and dirt?
- New Pedal Threads Greased: Is a thin, even layer of bicycle grease applied to the threads of both new pedals?
- Right Pedal Installed Correctly: Is the 'R' pedal screwed into the right crank arm, tightened clockwise?
- Left Pedal Installed Correctly: Is the 'L' pedal screwed into the left crank arm, tightened anti-clockwise?
- Pedals Are Tight: Are both pedals securely tightened, with no wobbling or looseness, but not overtightened?
- No Gaps: Are the pedals fully seated against the crank arms with no visible gaps?
- Smooth Rotation: Do the pedals spin freely without any grinding or unusual noise?
- Test Ride Completed: Have you taken a short test ride to confirm everything feels secure and functions correctly?
- Re-tightened After Ride: Have you re-checked the tightness of both pedals after your first ride to account for any settling?